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When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.